December 2014

Quote for the Day

It seems to be a law inflexible and inexorable that he who will not risk cannot win.

–John Paul Jones

 

Potrero News

Looks like things are slowly but surely returning to normal after some very slow years due to the media hype over the cartel wars.  There’s been a steady stream of climbers arriving since early October and we had our busiest Thanksgiving week-end in many years.

There’s also been a lot more climbers driving down than in recent years.  Now in mid-December we have climbermobiles here from Washington to California to Florida to Maine and many points in between.

New route activity has begun with JP Cashiola and a partner bolting a new multi-pitch to the right of Satori.  They have two pitches in so far and will be back soon to keep pushing upward.

 

Property For Sale

With his kids grown up, raising their own families and not travelling much to climb, and with the passing of his close friend, Homero Gutierrez, Steve Ussach has decided to sell his property near the Potrero Chico.

The two bedroom house sits on 2000 square meters of land just a ten minute walk to the climbing.  Asking price $60,000 usd.

Front entrance

Front entrance

Living room

Living room

Kitchen

Kitchen

Bedroom 1

Bedroom 1

Bedroom 2

Bedroom 2

Kitchen

Kitchen

Bathroom

Bathroom

Dining area

Dining area

View from front window

View from front window

 

 

Recent Climbing Photos

Climber high on Heart and Soul, 5.11b. Spires on the right.

Climber high on Heart and Soul, 5.11b.
Spires on the right.

Climbing the leaning pillar on the first pitch of Treasure of the Sierra Madre.

Climbing the leaning pillar on the first pitch of Treasure of the Sierra Madre.

Cooters on Skooters, 5.10d

Cooters on Skooters, 5.10d

Fantastic 5.10d hand crack, pitch 3, Evil Shenanigans

Fantastic 5.10d hand crack, pitch 3, Evil Shenanigans

Two Pumped Chump., 5.11a

Two Pumped Chump., 5.11a

Climbers on the second pitch of Cactus Pile

Climbers on the second pitch of Cactus Pile

Cactus Pile, pitch 2, 5.10b

Cactus Pile, pitch 2, 5.10b

Kelso's Way, 5.10c/d

Kelso’s Way, 5.10c/d

Kelso's Way

Kelso’s Way

Rapping off the Space Boyz pinnacle

Rapping off the Space Boyz pinnacle

 

Potrero Pups

The pack at home

The pack at home

I currently have 5 rescue dogs looking for homes.

Ronnie

Ronnie

Sally

Sally

Also, be sure to buy lots of tickets for the Annual New Year’s Eve Potrero Pups fundraiser raffle.

Potrero Pups New Year's Eve Fundraiser poster

Potrero Pups New Year’s Eve Fundraiser poster

 

Miscellaneous Photos

PotreroChico from the highway

PotreroChico from the highway

Red road in the basin

Red road in the basin

Hanging out by Edgardo's Pizza and Margarita Wagon

Hanging out by Edgardo’s Pizza and Margarita Wagon

View from the trail to the top of El Toro

View from the trail to the top of El Toro

 

Climber’s License Plates

West Virginia, USA

West Virginia, USA

Kentucky, USA

Kentucky, USA

 

Rogues Gallery

George Sutherland, Marcel Skura, Chase Richardson, Toronto, Canada, Karl Britten, Perth, Australia

George Sutherland, Marcel Skura, Chase Richardson, Toronto, Canada, Karl Britten, Perth, Australia

Patrick Mees and Khadija Shahid, Iowa City, IA

Patrick Mees and Khadija Shahid, Iowa City, IA

Paul Knox, Cameron Triay, Chris War, Baton Rouge, LA

Paul Knox, Cameron Triay, Chris War, Baton Rouge, LA

Graham and Elise Landry, Houston, TX

Graham and Elise Landry, Houston, TX

Karl and Adair Anderson

Karl and Adair Anderson, Washington, D.C.

Tom and Denise Macyka, Colorado

Tom and Denise Maceyka, Colorado

Radek and Shirley Chalupa, Portland, OR;  Dave Ray and Sean ?, North Carolina

Radek and Shirley Chalupa, Portland, OR;
Dave Ray and Sean ?, North Carolina

Drew Smith, Montana, Savannah Cummins, Nevada

Drew Smith, Montana, Savannah Cummins, Nevada

Adrian Tanguay, New York

Adrian Tanguay, New York

Cameron Saul and Tatiana Cottam, San Francisco

Cameron Saul and Tatiana Cottam, San Francisco

Dave and Debbie Reeder, Anacortes, Washington

Dave and Debbie Reeder, Anacortes, Washington

Mark Cournoyer, Chris Surmacz. Raj Jayarama, Houston, TX

Mark Cournoyer, Chris Surmacz, Raj Jayarama, Houston, TX

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

El que parte y comparte se queda con la mejor parte.

He who divides and shares is left with the best share.

 

 

Potrero Dreamscapes

Dreamscape #18 The Wonder View

Dreamscape #18
The Wonder View

November 2014

Quote for the Day

An attitude of gratitude brings opportunities.

–Yogi teabag wisdom

 

New Route Chronicles

Gino Negrini and Sierra Allen climbed the second ascent of Time Loves a Hero and have comfirmed the grades at 5.11a for the third pitch and 5.11b for the fifth pitch.

Gino and Sierra on the 5th pitch of Time Loves a Hero

Gino and Sierra on the 5th pitch of Time Loves a Hero

Yesterday I hiked up and placed the final touch on the route: the name plaque.

Name plaque and paraphernalia

Name plaque and paraphernalia

Name plaque at the start of Time Loves a Hero

Name plaque at the start of Time Loves a Hero

 

Recent Climbing Photos

 

Climber on the 3rd pitch of Dope Ninja

Climber on the 3rd pitch of Dope Ninja

Party of 3 on Pancho Villa, pitch 3

Party of 3 on Pancho Villa, pitch 3

Karen on One Dead Teardrop, Wonder Wall

Karen on One Dead Teardrop, Wonder Wall

Maxie in the crux of Mota Rolla

Maxie in the crux of Mota Rolla

The Gringo Ate My Baby

The Gringo Ate My Baby

Scrutinizer 1

Stylin’ on Full Throttle, 5.10d

Scrutinizer 2

Full Throttle on the Scrutinizer Wall

I Believe I Can Fly and Mota Rolla

I Believe I Can Fly and Mota Rolla

 

Virgin Rock

The Lotus Flower Tower of the Potrero at the East end of the Sense of Religion Wall

The Lotus Flower Tower of the Potrero at the East end of the Sense of Religion Wall

 

Miscellaneous Photos

Las Estrellas Canyon

Las Estrellas Canyon

New billboard at the edge of town

New billboard at the edge of town

Colorful hen on my dining room table

Colorful hen on my dining room table

Prickly Pear below the Sense of Religion Wall

Prickly Pear below the Sense of Religion Wall

 

Rogues’ Gallery

Sierra Allen and Gino Negrini, Costa Rica

Sierra Allen and Gino Negrini, Costa Rica

Maxie and , Germany

Maximiliane Scholz and Carlitos, Fischbachau, Germany

Dave and , North Carolina

Dave Mac and Michelle, North Carolina

Karen, Boulder, CO

Karen Hargrave, Boulder, CO

Federika and the Colombians

Federika and the Colombians

Federika, Switzerland

Federika, Switzerland

Ali McDowell, Fairbanks, AK, and Scott Peters, F City, IA

Ali McDowell, Fairbanks, AK, and Scott Peters, F City, IA

Lisa R. and

Lisa Rosenthal. Oakland, CA and Roberto Rodriguez, McAllen, TX

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

El tiempo cura y nos mata.

Time heals and then it kills.

 

Dreamscapes

Deamscape #17 Estrellita

Deamscape #17
Estrellita

October 2014

Quote for the Day

Life is without meaning.

You bring the meaning to it.

The meaning of life is whatever you ascribe to it.

Being alive is the meaning.

–Joseph Campbell

 

Potrero News

For the first time in many years Tami and I stayed in Wisconsin long enough to enjoy the Fall colors and we were not disappointed…

Fall in Wisconsin

Fall in Wisconsin

Maple forest

Maple forest

Forest floor

Forest floor

Devil's Lake

Devil’s Lake

 

But now we’re happy to be back in the land of big limestone walls…

 

Climber starting the crux bulge on Golden Puff, 5.10d

Climber starting the crux bulge on Golden Puff, 5.10d

 

The weather is perfect, climbers are trickling in from the far corners of the globe and the 2014-2015 season is under way!

 

Recent Climbing Photos

Sunday afternoon on The Wave

Sunday afternoon on The Wave

Climbers on the Spires as seen from the Chalet

Climbers on the Spires as seen from the Chalet

The first roof on Golden Puff

The first roof on Golden Puff

Maxie on Gringo Disco

Maxie on Gringo Disco

Doin' the Gringo Disco

Doin’ the Gringo Disco

 

Virgin Rock

 

Unclimbed rock in the Virgin Canyon

Unclimbed rock in the Virgin Canyon

Big unclimbed wall at the far end of the Virgin Canyon

Big unclimbed wall at the far end of the Virgin Canyon

 

Miscellaneous Photos

Mine truck

Mine truck

Free camping in the basin

Free camping in the basin

Basin view

Basin view

Spires moon

Spires moon

 

 Climber’s License Plates

Oklahoma, USA

Oklahoma, USA

 

Rogues Gallery 2014-2015

Birddog, Austin, TX

Birddog, Austin, TX

Elizabeth Honaker, Chris Barton, Kiko Giraldo, Austin, TX

Elizabeth Honaker, Chris Barton, Kiko Giraldo, Austin, TX

Dylan Cunninghant and Jess Taylor, Ravelstoke, B.C.

Dylan Cunninghant and Jess Taylor, Ravelstoke, B.C.

Yanik Simoneau-Chatigny, Michael Herbert, Sherbrooke, Quebec

Yanik Simoneau-Chatigny, Michael Herbert, Sherbrooke, Quebec

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

El que mucho mal padece con poco bien se conforma.

He who suffers many evils is comforted with just a little good.

 

Potrero Dreamscapes

Dreamscape #16 Breakfast Club Peak and Buzz Rock

Dreamscape #16
Breakfast Club Peak and Buzz Rock

September 2014

Quote for the Day

Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.

–Oscar Wilde

 

Potrero News

Tami and I are still in Wisconsin but will be heading South soon to get ready for what is promising to me another fine Winter in the Potrero.  Most of our casitas have been reserved for the Christmas/New Year’s high season so if you haven’t made your plans yet you’d better get on it.

Meanwhile here’s a few more…

 

Potrero Photos from the Internet

Amy Trook on Timewave Zero photo by M. Morley

Amy Trook on Timewave Zero photo by M. Morley

 

Callie on Timewave Zero photo by brassnuts

Callie on Timewave Zero photo by brassnuts

 

Timewave Zero photo by jhump

Timewave Zero photo by jhump

 

Through the Looking Glass photo by CM

Through the Looking Glass photo by CM

 

Nemo  photo by Charman

Nemo photo by Charman

 

The outrageous Outrage Wall  photo by unknown

The outrageous Outrage Wall photo by unknown

 

Wisconsin Gallery

 

Devil's Lake shenanigans

Devil’s Lake shenanigans

 

Tami in Wisconsin

Tami in Wisconsin

 

Cool shadows on the trail

Cool shadows on the trail

 

Creek scene

Creek scene

 

The woods are full of interesting mushrooms these days…  I won’t try to identify them all…

 

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

Cada quien tiene su forma de matar a pulgas.

Everyone has their own way of killing fleas.

 

Potrero Dreamscapes

Dreamscape #15 The Virgin Canyon

Dreamscape #15
The Virgin Canyon

 

 

August 2014

Quote for the Day

Life is a dream for the wise, a game for the fool, a comedy for the rich, a tragedy for the poor.

–Sholem Aleichem

 

Homero Gutierrez

Jeff Jackson has written a beautiful tribute to Homero.  You can read it on the Rock & Ice website

rockandice.com      Couldn’t get the link to work so you’ll have to type in homero in the search box

Homero Gutierrez 1954-2014

Homero Gutierrez
1954-2014

 

 

Alex Honnold

Alex has written about his experience soloing the Sendero Luminoso in the latest issue of Alpinist.

alpinist.com/doc/ALP47/70-sendero-luminoso-alex-honnold

Alex Honnold in Alpinist

Alex Honnold in Alpinist

 

Alex Honnold on Sendero Luminoso

Alex Honnold on Sendero Luminoso

 

 

Guest Photos

Here’s a few more Potrero photos taken from the world web:

 

North face of El Toro photo by Daniel de Regil

North face of El Toro
photo by Daniel de Regil

 

Barret Parker on Aguja Celo Rey photo by David Preston

Barret Parker on Aguja Celo Rey
photo by David Preston

 

Phil on Milk Cow Blues photo by grizz

Phil on Milk Cow Blues
photo by grizz

 

Climber on the Mota Wall photo by Tork

Climber on the Mota Wall
photo by Tork

 

Riders approaching the Potrero Chico photo by Hamie

Riders approaching the Potrero Chico
photo by Hamie

 

 

Wisconsin Album

Tami and I are spending the Summer in the Land of Sky-blue Waters.  Doing a little climbing, lots of hiking with the dogs and enjoying some real water and real trees.

My permanent campsite at Wheeler's near Devil's Lake

My permanent campsite at Wheeler’s near Devil’s Lake

 

Cool tree on Wheeler's property

Cool tree on Wheeler’s property

 

Yellow Daisies

Yellow Daisies

 

Purple Cones

Purple Cones

 

Wisconsin sandstone, Gibraltar Rock

Wisconsin sandstone, Gibraltar Rock

 

Gibraltar Rock

Gibraltar Rock

 

Devil's Lake from Elephant Rocks

Devil’s Lake from Elephant Rocks

 

Climber at Elephant Rocks

Climber at Elephant Rocks

 

Climber on Alligator Wall, Old Sandstone area

Climber on Alligator Wall, Old Sandstone area

 

Chloe and Isaiah in Fisher Creek

Chloe and Isaiah in Fisher Creek

 

Queen Anne's Lace

Queen Anne’s Lace

 

Isaiah checking out the Rock River

Isaiah checking out the Rock River

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

El que temprano se moja tiempo tiene de secarse.

He who gets drenched at dawn has the rest of the day to dry out.

 

Potrero Dreamscapes

Dreamscape #14 Mota Wall and El Toro from Time Loves a Hero

Dreamscape #14
Mota Wall and El Toro from Time Loves a Hero

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

July 21, 2014

Quote For the Day

The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are. –Joseph Campbell

 

R.I.P. Homero Gutierrez

I am very sad to report the death of our good friend Homero Gutierrez. Homero was the first Hidalgo local to befriend the visiting climbers and turn his property into the Camp 4 of the Potrero Chico.

For many years he offered us all a home away from home and hosted many a Thanksgiving dinner for 100 climbers, many a Super Bowl party, and the annual New Year’s Eve bash complete with live music, fireworks and mechanical bull.

Homero Gutierrez in a tyical pose at his ranch. photo courtesy of Brian Feldman

Homero Gutierrez in a tyical pose at his ranch.
photo courtesy of Brian Feldman

Tami and I were the first climbers to settle permanently in Hidalgo and relied heavily on Homero for everything from purchasing property to finding a good mechanic.

Homero’s generous heart gave out on July 3rd, 2014 at the age of 59.  He will be sorely missed.

 

Guest Photos

Herewith a selection of photos culled from the interwebs:

Annette on Two Pumed Chump photo by krillen

Annette on Two Pumed Chump
photo by krillen

 

Drew Peterson on Pangea photo by David Vuono

Drew Peterson on Pangea
photo by David Vuono

 

Diana on the summit of Timewave Zero photo by Mark Grundon

Diana on the summit of Timewave Zero
photo by Mark Grundon

 

Homero with rattlesnake photo by Danny Inman

Homero with rattlesnake
photo by Danny Inman

 

Magic Ed on the FFA, pitch 3, Time Loves a Hero photo by Kristen Shelburg

Magic Ed on the FFA, pitch 3, Time Loves a Hero
photo by Kristen Shelburg

 

The Illuminati Wall from Timewave Zero photo by ashwartz

The Illuminati Wall from Timewave Zero
photo by ashwartz

 

Manboy on Nemo hoto by unknown

Manboy on Nemo
hoto by unknown

 

Spires in the fog photo by unknown

Spires in the fog
photo by unknown

 

Potrero Pups

Remember this little guy?

 

Nap time for this crag dog in training

Nap time for this crag dog in training

 

Caleb was adopted by Chris Palmer, a Brit who was living in Austin but has since moved back to England.  Not bad for a Mexican street orphan.

In next month’s post I will be featuring our efforts to improve the lot of the local mutts.

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

Todo por servir se acaba. Everything wears away from use.

 

Potrero Dreamscapes

 

Dreamscape #13 South face of El Toro behind the matorral

Dreamscape #13
South face of El Toro behind the matorral

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