Pursue not the outer entanglements,
Dwell not in the inner void;
Be serene in the oneness of things,
And dualism vanishes by itself.
The weather can’t make up its mind–every time we think Winter is over we get slammed by a few more days of chilly, wet misery. A few days ago everyone got caught on the walls by an unexpected storm that blew in with high winds and a drenching rain. No one is complaining, though; we’ve had many beautiful sunny days in the high 80′s.
A tip of the cap to Jon Jones who was here for a few weeks and did quite a bit of maintenance work replacing and upgrading many of the old anchors on the Mota Wall. He also did some fine tuning on a few routes that needed improvements and bolted a new route with Andy Genereux on the TNT Wall between Baked Fresh Daily and No Habla Español. Señor Sucio is graded at 5.10d/11a.
If you haven’t seen it yet, here’s a link for the short video they made of Alex’s unroped ascent of El Sendero Luminoso: http://youtube.com/watch?v=Phl82D57P58
Every Saturday morning Rosaura 10, and her brother Bryan 8, show up on my front porch all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed eager to go climbing. Sometimes they bring other kids who want to have a go. Both of them have become adept at belaying and lowering a climber with a gri-gri.
Hay mas tiempo que vida.
There is more time than life.
We must embrace pain and use it as fuel for our journey.
The last couple of weeks of January were very quiet but this month things picked up considerably with a steady stream of climbers coming and going.
On the new route front, Ann Ramsey and I have begun to clean and add more routes in the Jungle Warfare sector and Rick Ross has been quietly developing a new area on the Sense of Religion Wall up past the Hi Life sector. More info should be available soon.
The cold weather appears to be behind us, with the daytime temps in the 80′s and sunny so the action has shifted to the north-facing walls which are in the shade. El Sendero Luminoso has been receiving quite a bit of attention since Alex Honnold’s remarkable solo ascent a few weeks ago.
Justo es que pierda lo suyo, quien quiso robar lo tuyo.
It is only just that he who would rob you lose everything.
Whoever wants to understand much must play much.
The peak of the season has come and gone and it was a good one in spite of some nasty weather which made picking up and dropping climbers off at the airport a stressful and sometimes harrowing event. There was enough good weather, however, so that nobody’s trip was a total wash-out.
There has been no new route activity so far this winter but next month we are expecting four parties who will be bolting in various different sectors.
Alex Honnold stole the show again this year with his mind-boggling solo of El Sendero Luminoso. Imagine pitch after pitch of 5.12 slab climbing where most of the hand holds are side-pulls and there is nothing for the feet.
Radek and Shirley Chalupa were back for the third year in a row and though they didn’t stay long and the weather wasn’t perfect they managed to climb some good routes. You can see more of their travels around Mexico on their blog: chossclimbers. com
I somehow went and lost about 6 weeks of photos in my camera so if I took your photo for this section and it doesn’t appear you’ll just have to come back next year.
El mentiroso debe primero saber la verdad.
The liar must first know the truth.
Reality is what refuses to go away after I stop believing in it.
–Phillip K. Dick
The season is well under way, with climbers from all over the globe arriving by land and air. We’ve had some chilly weather dipping down from the North but it hasn’t been severe enough to prevent anyone from getting out and on the walls.
Two years after his horrific accident (remember here: magicedspotrerochico.com/?p=1822) Frank has returned to the Potrero with one main goal: to climb Double Trouble, the route he was working on when he fell.
Because the second pitch is a tricky 5.10d (which everyone knows is harder than 5.11) and both of us are kinda outta shape, we enlisted the cutest girl in the world to lead us up it.
Adrian Tanguay led the first pitch of Double Trouble while Sierra and I climbed the first two pitches of Leap of Faith so I could get some good photos.
Sierra then rapped to the first pitch of Double Trouble and smoothly led the second pitch.
Frank struggled a bit but did not give up.
Congratulations, Frank, long may you run.
Gino and Sierra made a three-day ascent of Sendero Luminoso, 15 pitches, 5.12d, over a very chilly Thanksgiving.
You can see the video they made here: vimeo.com/user3044616
The tiny puppy we found is developing into a beautiful, strong, healthy pit bull who needs a permanent home.
La amistad sincera es un alma repartida en dos cuerpos.
True friendship is one soul shared by two bodies.
Climbers are starting to trickle in and the owners of El Buho, The Owl, coffee shop, are back from North Carolina so I’m declaring the 2013-2014 season OPEN! I’m predicting another great season so start making your plans to be a part of it.
In the meantime, Happy Halloween and Dia de Muertos.
I took a hike with the dogs a few weeks ago to the natural arch I “discovered” just a couple of years ago…
It was an overcast day which provided some dramatic scenery…
Imagine my surprise to find that the arch has collapsed and is no more!
Little Sunshine, the puppy we found with an infected bite on her back has been adopted by a local family.
Buddy Knutsen, now known as BK, is now part of our pack. Because of his bad paw he has trouble keeping up with the other mutts on level ground but on the steep stuff he’s a veritable climbing machine.
While hiking with the pack along the dirt roads below the front side we came upon a tiny, 4-week-old female puppy.
Unfortunately, folks around here still take their unwanted puppies and ditch them. This little girl got lucky that we
found her before she starved to death or got eaten by the coyotes.
The wildflowers were a big hit in my last post so here’s a few more:
I’m slowly adding to the list of climber’s license plates seen in the Potrero. It’s too bad I didn’t start a while back ‘cuz I would have some very rare sightings such as Hawaii and Rhode Island.
El que demonios da, diablos recibe.
He who gives demons receives devils.
“The good life is a process, not a state of being. It is a direction, not a destination.”
Our September rains arrived punctually on September first and have been generous. Even before the tail end of Ingrid swept though, we’d already more than doubled the average rainfall for the month. Those of us who live here love the rain; it clears the dust out of the air and turns the desert a lush verdant with thousands of wildflowers blooming everywhere. It’s also when the rock is at its most dramatic, with the grey rock turning black and the cream-colored walls jump out at you.
With the exception of a few climbers from Monterrey on the week-ends, there has been no climbing action to report but we did receive a three week visit from a group of Mexican and French highliners. They set and walked a number of amazing high–and I mean really high–lines.
Besides the obvious between the Spires, they set lines from the Spires to the Outrage wall, across the gap in front of the Wave, across Las Estrellas canyon to the top of Tami’s Pillarl, and they even humped all their gear to the summit of El Toro for a spectacular walk at the top of the mountain.
The following photos are from their facebook page. You can see many more photos and videos here:
In September of 1846, an American army of 6250 men led by Zachary Taylor, attacked the city of Monterrey at the beginning of a war which would last an entire year. The reasons for this war are complex and involve a border dispute over the newly annexed territory of Texas and redress for a large amount of commercial debt that Mexico owed to American businesses.
Both sides in this battle for Monterrey committed costly blunders. The Americans failed to recognize a couple of Mexican fortifications guarding the entrance to the city, and once inside, they realized that they were ill trained for urban warfare and became easy targets for the Mexican snipers posted on the rooftops and windows of the buildings.
After suffering hundreds of casualties, the Americans retreated and now the Mexicans blundered by not pressing their advantage and giving chase. The following day, after another bloody battle with serious consequences, the Americans finally gained the upper hand and the Mexicans realized it would be to their advantage to surrender.
Surrender they did, but under their own terms, which allowed them to retreat to Saltillo with their weapons, their flags unfurled and with the promise of a two week armistice.
A couple of interesting side notes:
When the Americans entered Mexico, a number of disgruntled soldiers, mostly of Irish descent, defected over to the Mexican side. This St. Patrick’s Brigade is honored in Mexico to this day.
Both Generals in this conflict, Zachary Taylor and Pedro de Ampudia, would become President of their respective countries.
La necedad cierra las puertas de la bondad.
Stubborness closes the doors of kindness.