August 22, 2011

One-liner of the Day

No one is listening until you make a mistake.

Access Denied

Access Denied

Looming above the swimming resort, the four pitch Access Denied (5.10a, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.9) is another route that I looked at for more than 10 years before I got to climb it.  Normally this is due to the vast amount of unclimbed rock in the Potrero, but in this case I didn’t venture onto it because there used to be a crusty old caretaker at the resort who would not allow us climb there.  Finally, in the Spring of 2005, the old guy retired and the assault on the “resort walls” could begin.  Dane Bass, Rick Ross and Ralph Vega put up a number of excellent routes on what they called the Wonder Wall (“It’s a wonder that this wasn’t the first wall bolted in the Potrero!”) and I went a bit further uphill to those dihedrals that I’d been looking at for so long.

Climber on Access Denied with jet streak

After a false start that crapped out just 20 feet up, Thomas Emde, a German climber and Potrero regular, and I found the way into the dihedral on the first pitch.  Unfortunately Thomas had to leave but I was able to replace him with Javier Gonzalez, a Spaniard who now lives in Southern California.  Javier and I climbed and bolted the rest of the route and actually did the free ascent before cleaning all the vegetation and loose rock because now Javier was running out of time.

Just before he left, Javier jugged up to the start of the 4th pitch to trundle a huge refrigerator-sized block that was perched on a ledge.  Now this was just a week before the swimming pools were scheduled to open and crews had been cleaning and painting and getting things ready but on this day the only person around was the new caretaker.  We warned him about the block coming down and explained that because of the steep terrain below the wall whatever came down was likely to roll and bounce all the way to the pools.  Well, that’s exactly what happened and a huge chunk of rock came crashing into one of the buildings causing some damage.  The caretaker immediately went downtown to report us.

The local administration’s response was to close the whole Virgin Canyon to climbing.  This made a lot of climbers angry because the Virgin Canyon is very popular that time of year since it gets lots of shade.  We had to set up a meeting with the mayor and his henchmen to explain that we knew what we were doing and had made sure there was no one in the line of fire and that we actually did them a huge favor because that block would have come down on it’s own sooner or later.  Calm was restored, the Virgin and Wonder sectors re-opened and we had a great name, Access Denied, for the new route.

Cleaning the rest of the route properly had to wait until the following Fall when the swimming pools closed.  The second pitch was especially hard to clean because it consists of a 100 foot-tall wide crack that was completely choked with loose flakes and dirt and vegetation.  When the route was finally clean I left the fixed ropes on it so I could jug up and get some good photos of Rusty Baille and Gildas Tremblay, long-time Potrero regulars, bagging the second ascent.  Enjoy.

Gildas Tremblay starts up the first pitch.

Gildas on pitch one

Gildas on the first pitch

Gildas belays Rusty on the first pitch.

Rusty Baillie starts up the second pitch.

Rusty leading the second pitch.

Rusty belays Gildas on the second pitch.

Rusty starts up pitch three

Rusty leads pitch three.

Rusty Baillie, pitch 3, Access Denied

Rusty at the crux of the route on the third pitch.

Rusty jamming through the crux on pitch 3.

Gildas Tremblay starts up the fourth pitch of Access Denied.

Gildas cruisin' the fourth pitch

Rusty coming up the fourth pitch

Rusty and Gildas descend the gulley to the Virgin Canyon overlook after climbing Access Denied.

 

Mexican Folk Wisdom

El que con lobos anda a aullar se enseña.

He who walks with wolves learns to howl.

 

Parting Shot

El Potrero Chico

August 1, 2011

One-Liner of the Day

If everything is coming your way, then you’re in the wrong lane.

Raul Revilla and the First Carabiner in Mexico

Don Raul Revilla is generally acknowledged as the Grandfather of Mexican rock climbing.

Don Raul Revilla

Raul’s friends were always trying to get him to come hiking with them in the mountains above their home town of Pachuca, Hidalgo, an old mining town a couple hours north of Mexico City.  Raul wasn’t interested until one day he heard that some visiting Spaniards were going to climb the vertical rock outcrops.  He went, he saw, and he became an avid climber.

It was 1940 and the only climbing gear they had was a hemp rope, toreador slippers and home-made ring pitons.  The leader would climb up the cobbled rock until he encountered a small crack where he could pound in a piton.  Using a piece of hemp cord he would tie himself to the piton, untie the climbing rope from around his waist, pass the rope through the ring in the piton, tie back in, release the cord,  and continue climbing.

One day Raul was reading a French novel that had been translated into Spanish.  One of the scenes in the book was about rock climbing and it described a carabiner and how it was used for the climber’s safety.  Now Raul had never seen a carabiner but based on the description he’d read he decided to make himself a couple of carabiners.

The First Carabiner in Mexico

Made of hammered iron and baling wire, he beat Black Diamond to the wire-gate idea by more than 40 years.

Owning these two ‘biners, as well as his passion and big cojones, made Raul a very popular fellow.

Raul Revilla celebrated by his friends after a bold lead

 

Raul was a shoe maker and one day a friend asked him to make some mountain boots.  They turned out so well that by simple word of mouth he had embarked on a new career that would support his large family and Revilla’s custom boots are still popular among Mexican climbers.

Raul Revilla and El Colmillo (The Fang)

In 1990, Eric Sandberg and I went to Mexico for two months with 200 bolts and a hand drill.  Our objective was to put up some routes on the Peña de Bernal, a huge monolith in the State of Queretaro.

Just before we left we picked up the latest copy of Rock & Ice magazine which contained an article about climbing in Mexico by Bill Hatcher and Todd Skinner.  In the article they talk about meeting Don Raul and declining an offer to go climb El Colmillo, The Fang, 5.10b, one of the Maestro’s early masterpieces.  As Todd put it, “the first crux is at 65 feet and the first protection is at 75 feet.  The base of El Colmillo is littered with white crosses.  If you did fall you’d land among them.  At least six climbers have died attempting to do the route.”

Eric and I decided we had to meet Don Raul and at least take a look at this famous route.  Here’s how it came about.

We were spending Christmas in Mexico City with my Mom when we heard about a climbing area right inside the city.  You take the subway to the Copilco station, walk up to the street, turn into the high rise complex with 30 story buildings towering above you and find yourself amongst some really good basalt climbing.  The buildings were built to house athletes during the Olympic Games of 1968 and now serve as married-student housing for the University.

Basalt at Copilco, Mexico City

Climbing in Copilco

While we were there we met a couple of climbers who said they were from Pachuca but attending the University in Mexico City.  “Do you know Maestro Revilla?” we asked.  “Sure, he’s my father,” replied our new friend, Pablo Revilla.

A few days later we found ourselves in Pachuca, an interesting city influenced by the large number of Cornish miners who moved here to work the mines.

Eric in Pachuca

This clock tower was a gift from England and the clockworks are a twin to Big Ben.

We stayed with the Revilla family for several days, climbing the local crags with Pablo and talking climbing history with the Maestro himself.  He showed us his carabiner as well as a leather protector he made for those painful Dulfersitz rappels.

Display showing Dulfer rappel system

Pablo demonstrates the Dulfer rappel

 

Raul Revilla on Popocatepetl

Finally the subject of El Colmillo came up and Pablo surprised us all by announcing that he felt he was ready to lead what was considered the local “final exam”.

By the time we were ready to leave the next morning the party consisted of Eric and myself and Pablo and two of his brothers.  The Maestro had already planned an outing with some of his friends and would not be joining us.  But at the last minute his friends cancelled and he decided to come with which was a good thing because without him we would never have found the right trail let alone the right spire to climb.

The hike into El Colmillo

 

Los Frailes de Actopan The Friars of Actopan

El Colmillo is in an area known as Los Frailes de Actopan, The Friars of Actopan,  full of conglomerate spires and other weird formations.

El Conejo, Rabbit Rock

El Colmillo, The Fang, from the approach trail

 

Pablo Revilla on pitch 1, El Colmillo

Pablo powers through the unprotected crux.

Looking up the first pitch of El Colmillo

Climber at the belay, pitch 1, El Colmillo

 

For some reason I don’t have a photo of it but the belay anchor at the top of the first pitch consisted of two railroad spikes driven into some shallow cracks with a bunch of webbing tied between them.

Pablo leads pitch 2, El Colmillo

Eric Sandburg follows pitch 2, El Colmillo

Just before I started up the Maestro asked me, “Wouldn’t you rather be leading this?”  “Sure, but this is Pablo’s day.”

 

Pablo Revilla on the summit of El Colmillo

Rapping off El Colmillo

Happy climbers after an ascent of El Colmillo

Don Raul Revilla looking up at El Colmillo

 

Commercial Message

For a short time only, copies of my Climb El Potrero Chico, the ONLY up-to-date guidebook to the Potrero, will be available by mail.  These books are usually only available after you arrive in Mexico.  Order yours today.

Paypal $16.00 to potreroed@yahoo.com

Mexican Folk Wisdom

Solo lo barato se compra con dinero.

Money buys only what is cheap.

 

 Parting Shot

The View from Actopan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Miscellaneous Photos

Potrero scenic

El Potrero Chico seen from the western desert

Upper Spire through the trees

Dinner at Tami’s photo by Timmy Tormey

Tami Wright

Bird on a Spire

Hidalgo and the Potrero Chico photo by Hernandez

Ahh…

A sad ending for my first bolt.

Belay station, pitch 3, Jungle Mountaineering

View from my bathroom window

Picachos

Picachos

 

Potrero sunset

Potrero Chico from the old mule trail to Monterrey

Hidalgo Cemetary 2

North Face from the highway

Dihedrals, Surf Bowl, TWZ

Sense of Religion Wall December 25, 2010

Dihedrals from the saddle on the approach.

Potrero reflection

The Texas Ridge is seen to the left of the Spires. Outrage Wall on the right.

View from pitch 6 of the Texas Ridge

Patrolling the Potrero Chico by Helicopter

Potrero Chico Charcoal

Tami hiking in the basin

Approaching the canyon on a grey day

protect the bears

Mango still life

Potrero Chico Fossil

Anacahuitas below the Jungle Wall.

Anacahuitas below the Outrage Wall.

Spires and Outrage Wall photo by Michael Botkin

Balneario El Potrero Chico at night

Cactus flowers

Prickly Pear Cactus in bloom.

Wild Hidalgo Truck photo by Michael Botkin

North face of Los Lobos Canyon

Inside the Basin

Spider and web on prickly pear cactus

Rock glistening after the storm

Front side in the rain & mist

The King Swing

Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, and Potrero Grande across the Salinas River Valley.

 

More Vertical Jungle

 

Vertical Jungle

 

Vine cactus on scree slope

 

Looking past Hidden Valley towards the Outrage, Jungle, Virgin Canyon

 

El Toro from Hidden Valley Ridge

 

Train & Potrero Grande

 

Mission accomplished

 

Rodman begins the ascent.

 

The First Carabiner in Mexico For the full story see my blog post from Aug 1, 2011

El Potrero Chico with cotton-ball clouds

North face, East side, El Potrero Chico, photo by Michael Botkin

El Potrero Chico and the Yucca forest from the Laredo-Monterrey highway

Bear in the picnic grounds, Sept 7, 2011

Oso Negro

Potrero bear Sept. 7, 2011

Looking for lunch, Sept. 8, 2011

Bear and Coke signs, only in Mexico

Here’s a twist, the bear is free and the humans are behind bars!!

Potrero Chico viewed from Potrero Grande

Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon prepares for the Independence Day celebrations

Hidalgo Municipal building dressed for the celebration

Sign for Vulca Juve

Juve’s Vulca

Juve on the job

Juve in his shop

North face, East side

Cantu Brothers, Locksmiths

Making duplicate keys at the Friday market

Veronika climbed Pangea (5.11d) so fast she was just a blur

El Potrero Chico from the Culo del Gato

Cenizo and Goldfish

Cenizo bush in flower

Cenizo (Texas Sage) flowers

Sunset looking North

Bear waiting for the food to be ready

Bear, November 2011

Colorful Lizard checking us out.

Colorful lizard on grey rock

The Jungle Wall, photo by Gail Blauer

Canyon view from the arroyo

East-side canyons from Tarahumara Pass

Cactus close-up

Curious goats

Interesting patterns on tree trunk

Burro waiting while master quaffs a few beers

Gail at the Tuesday Market, photo by Mitchal Miller

Spires stand proudly below the Outrage Wall

Potrero Chico late afternoon

Sunset glow on Potrero Grande

Breakfast Club Peak on a grey day.

Cool rock in the arroyo

Art in basin 2

Art in basin 1

Art work in the basin

Left side of the Jungle Wall

Texas Ridge on a cloudy day.

Clouds in the Virgin Canyon

Low hanging clouds over the gap. Summit of Space Boyz on the right, summit of Estrellita on the left.

Low clouds on the front side-east.

Hidalgo’s old church

Highway scene near Hidalgo

Woodcutter in the basin

Jack Mileski Memorial

Hoodoo Ridge, Dihedrals, Surf Bowl, start to Timewave Zero

Ariel’s cabin from the Mileski Wall

Tecate delivery truck

Unusual cloud formation over the Potrero

Isaiah and Chloe on the porch

Then, Everything will Disappear.

Empty swimming pool

The top of El Toro

El Bobo under the Central Pillar

Breakfast Club Peak with El Bobo on the right

Shadow along the ledge system on the Sense of Religion Wall

Tami’s Nipple

The Grand Pillar, upper TNT Wall

East side of the canyon

Potrero Grande across the Salinas Valley

Sunset over La Muñeca and La Popa

Huizache a La Posada

Huizache below the Spires

Another fine sunset over the Potrero

Perfect water bottle niche, pitch 3 belay, Space Boyz

Shadow

Pork rinds cooking in the parking lot at La Mexicana grocery store

Old hardware from the first ascent of Space Boyz

El Bobo and the Central Pillar

East side from La Posada

Old poster for dance in the Potrero Chico, 1986

South face of El Toro with the line of Timewave Zero clearly visible

East side glare

Peach Blossoms

Rick Ross’ tipi in the basin

Lichen and Snail

Trident Loop

East side with El Bobo

Calcite from old mine on the front side

Calcite 2

Chair at old mine

Danger

Looking North towards Potrero Grande

Flowering Yuccas

I love the Potrero Chico, photo Ilana Marcus collection

Spires and Outrage Wall on a rainy day

Yellow flowers in the arroyo

Morning sun on the South end mountain

South end of the Basin

Hidalgo graffitti–God Bless Us

My van under the 400 year-old Oak Tree

Cement factory and the Potrero Diamond

Isaiah and Chloe in the cattails

Burros in my neighborhood

Dihedrals and clouds over Illuminati Wall

Vultures soaring in the basin

Low clouds in the basin

Phoenix Torrijos checking out the mountain photo by Cliff Torrijos

Potrero Chico, the ultimate urban crag

Las Tenerias

Closer view of Las Tenerias

Old Pecan trees at Las Tenerias

Las Tenerias and Tami’s Nipple

Cow high on the Mota Wall

Soldiers checking out my van

Grey skies, grey rock

Isaiah at the trailhead to El Toro

Jungle Wall

Spires in profile

Moon over the Central Pillar

Blue house under the mountain

Potrero Chico and…cattails?

Easter Cross below the mountain

Cool found rockscape in the arroyo

Baby tarantula

Rainbow from my front porch

Breakfast Club Peak and El Bobo

Typical vegetation in the basin

West end of the basin

Prickly Pear with purple fruit

View from the Wonder Wall

Lower Virgin Canyon

Shadow

Purple flower growing out of a small crack on my new route that I just cleaned a couple of weeks ago

View from the top of pitch 6

Looking down on the Outrage Wall and the Spires from the top of pitch 6

Approaching storm.

East end inside the basin

The gap from inside the basin

Sun and shadow.

Space Boyz pinnacle framed by Yucca.

The Illuminati Wall on a hazy day.

Carta Blanca commercial, cowboy atop the Spires

New bedroom window.

Chris looks on while Sarah enjoys a breakfast burrito at the belay ledge

Outrage shadow line

Tami’s Nipple with Yucca

East side clouds

Cloudy east side

Low clouds above Buzz Rock, Breakfast Club Peak in the center, Central Pillar upper left…

Central Pilar, shrouded in cloud…

Estrellita

The Outrage Wall

Eastside rock glistening after storm

Glistening Mota Wall

Potrero Sunset

Two men holding their cocks…

Young girl holding a cock…

Slack line below the Spires.

The Sense of Relgion Wall

Blue flowers in the basin

East side in sepia

Early morning sun hits the palm tree above the Vatican

This rattlesnake could have easily bit me before I knew it was there!

Tuna, also known as Higo de Nopal

UFO over the Potrero Diamond

Spire and Yucca

Spires with the Outrage and Jungle Walls behind

Roadside shrine decked out for Day of the Dead.

November 2nd, Day of the Dead, a Mexican celebration paying homage to our ancestors.

Potrero Chico playground

Late afternoon sun and moon over the HiLife Wall

Yellow cactus flowers

A number of new routes went up last year on the Mirador Wall

My van in it’s usual spot in the arroyo

The Zapatista Buttress catches the early morning sun.

Looking down at the summit of Snot Girlz

Potrero Grande and the town of Mina

Outrage and Jungle Walls

Illuminati Wall. Dihedrals and Surf Bowl in the lower right-hand corner.

Upper Sense of Religion Wall

Wall above huge 3rd class ledge, Mota Wall

Cool spiral fossil high on the Mota Wall

Shadow jumarring

Bull browsing in the basin

South face of El Toro

Stairway to Nowhere and Texas Ridge

Wonder Wall and El Mirador sector

Self Portrait with Cow Pie

Natural arch inside the basin

Natural arch inside the basin

South side of the Spires

South side of the Spires

The Cat's Lair Boulders

The Cat’s Lair Boulders

El Toro.  This is all the sun this 2000 foot wall gets in the Winter

El Toro. This is all the sun this 2000 foot wall gets in the Winter

View inside the basin

View inside the basin

Sense of Religion Wall

Sense of Religion Wall

Morning sun lights up the  Zapatista Buttress

Morning sun lights up the Zapatista Buttress

Camping under El Toro

Camping under El Toro

Rock pile sculpture

Rock pile sculpture

Edgardo's on-site shoe repair.  Claudia Moya, climbing guide extraordinaire, looks on.

Edgardo’s on-site shoe repair. Claudia Moya, climbing guide extraordinaire, looks on.

The first seven pitches of Timewave Zero

The first seven pitches of Timewave Zero

Mine truck under the Sense of Religion Wall

Mine truck under the Sense of Religion Wall

Space Boyz with Black Cat Bone in the shade

Space Boyz with Black Cat Bone in the shade

Mini Super Las Potras

Mini Super Las Potras

Candy vendor in Hidalgo

Candy vendor in Hidalgo

Cloud pattern over the Potrero Spires

Cloud pattern over the Potrero Spires

East-side walls

East-side walls

Skulls on gate.

Skulls on gate.

Giant Yucca Tree

Giant Yucca Tree

Timewave Zero

Timewave Zero

Street scene, Monterrey

Street scene, Monterrey

Jungle Warfare Wall

Jungle Warfare Wall

The Spires and Outrage Wall

The Spires and Outrage Wall

Death is Everywhere

Death is Everywhere

Potrero Grande

Potrero Grande

Cabalgata in the Potrero

Cabalgata in the Potrero

Humble neighborhood in Hidalgo

Humble neighborhood in Hidalgo

Dogs on a Ledge

Dogs on a Ledge

Garden Musician

Garden Musician

New belay ledge on pitch 3 of Las Chimuelas

New belay ledge on pitch 3 of Las Chimuelas

Ahh, much better!

Ahh, much better!

Cactus flowers gold

Cactus flowers gold

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cactus flower pink

Cactus flower pink

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cactus flowers purple

Cactus flowers purple

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reflexion

Reflexion

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset over La Muñeca and La Popa

Sunset over La Muñeca and La Popa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stand-off in the basin

Stand-off in the basin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Home Sweet Home

Home Sweet Home

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rider in Red

Rider in Red

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rider on white horse

Rider on white horse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scarecrow at Ariel's Chalet

Scarecrow at Ariel’s Chalet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Found rock

Found rock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Found Rock

Found Rock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Young Rider

Young Rider

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool rocks in the Red Canyon

Cool rocks in the Red Canyon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sense of Religion Wall

Sense of Religion Wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September flowers

September flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September flowers

September flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September flowers

September flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cenizo after a rain storm

Cenizo after a rain storm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September flowers

September flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's even a few mushrooms

There’s even a few mushrooms

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bougainvillea and mountain from my bedroom window

Bougainvillea and mountain from my bedroom window

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Water running across the road below the Mota Wall

Water running across the road below the Mota Wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wet street scene

Wet street scene

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shoes on the power lines

Shoes on the power lines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Small shrine at the edge of town

Small shrine at the edge of town

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ahh...good to see the sun and blue skies again!

Ahh…good to see the sun and blue skies again!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Potrero wildflowers

Potrero wildflowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellow flowers and driftwood

Yellow flowers and driftwood

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flower and thorns

Flower and thorns

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellow flower with Lechiguilla

Yellow flower with Lechuguilla

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arriero

Arriero

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reflection

Reflection

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hervey's Beetle under the Outrage Wall

Hervey’s Beetle under the Outrage Wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New graphics on Hidalgo bus

New graphics on Hidalgo bus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Image found near Hidden Spring

Image found near Hidden Spring

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peaks at the East end of the basin

Peaks at the East end of the basin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Illuminati wall

Illuminati wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from inside the Red Canyon

View from inside the Red Canyon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beautiful view on the hike out

Beautiful view on the hike out

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Classic view of the gap looking north

Classic view of the gap looking north

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Potrero Chico in the rearview

Potrero Chico in the rearview

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red earth, yellow flowers

Red earth, yellow flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kitchen scene, Mexican restaurant in Hidalgo

Kitchen scene, Mexican restaurant in Hidalgo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Short walk into the Virgin Canyon

Short walk into the Virgin Canyon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool cloud pattern over the Potrero

Cool cloud pattern over the Potrero

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Enjoying the hot springs

Enjoying the hot springs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hoodoos, Dihedrals and Timewave Zero

Hoodoos, Dihedrals and Timewave Zero

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Palapa roof pattern

Palapa roof pattern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lone cactus on the Jungle Warfare trail

Lone cactus on the Jungle Warfare trail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Buzz Rock

Buzz Rock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Buzz Rock and Breakfast Club Peak with magenta sky

Buzz Rock and Breakfast Club Peak with magenta sky

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellow cactus flowers

Yellow cactus flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset over Potrero Grande

Sunset over Potrero Grande

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

400 year old Oak tree in the basin

400 year old Oak tree in the basin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North-facing walls from the desert

North-facing walls from the desert

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Late afternoon sun lights up the Spires and Space Boyz Peak

Late afternoon sun lights up the Spires and Space Boyz Peak

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Snott Girlz Peak and ridgeline

Snott Girlz Peak and ridgeline

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Windmill factory near the airport

Windmill factory near the airport

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slacklining between the Spires

Slacklining between the Spires

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Central Pillar

The Central Pillar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

East-side above the swimming pools

East-side above the swimming pools

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exploring the old quarry on the front side

Exploring the old quarry on the front side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Selfie

Selfie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Virgin Rock

Looking for unclimbed rock?  Bolting opportunites abound and we fully encourage others to come down and bolt new routes.

One of the things I love most about the Potrero is that you can look at this mountain from any vantage point and see dozens, nay hundreds, of unclimbed walls and pinnacles.  And within a one hour drive from here the amount of virgin rock is truly mind boggling.

This page will feature photos of the unclimbed walls both here and at other nearby crags.

East end of the Sense of Religion Wall

Front side and West end of Basin

The Illuminati Wall

The Crescent Moon Buttress

Neon Tracks lead to La Muñeca

Cerro Gordo

Ismael and Isaiah below unnamed ridge

best wall on unnamed ridge

view from unnamed ridge includes The Diamond

Trail of Tears and Mi Regalo Favorito

Un-named peak above Buzz Rock

Un-named Buttress

Texas Ridge pitch 7?

The Potrero Chico Diamond

Unclimbed sector on Sense of Religion Wall

Tami’s Nipple

Upper Flamingo Wall, Virgin Canyon

Left side of the Jungle Wall

Unclimbed rock, Sky Top sector

The Grand Pillar, above the TNT Wall

Unclimbed wall high on Sense of Religion

Unclimbed wall 500 feet up in the Wild Kingdom

Unclimbed wall, Wild Kingdom

Sky Top Buttress with 2000 feet of wall above.

Unclimbed bowl in the Virgin Canyon

Unclimbed rock about 12 miles from Potrero Chico

North face of Los Lobos Canyon Lots of new route potential here.

Unclimbed wall at the top of Los Lobos Canyon

Virgin Wall top of Los Lobos

Rock walls next to Vertical Jungle

Cool-looking wall in Hidden Valley.

Another wall in Hidden Valley

Unclimbed wall near top of North Drainage

Hidden wall near top of North-east Drainage

Big unclimbed wall in Potrero Grande

Illuminati Wall

Beautiful, unclimbed, Illuminati Wall

Potrero Grande seen from the highway.

Unclimbed wall, Potrero Grande

Potrero Grande

Potrero Grande

Potrero Grande

Potrero Grande

Potrero Grande

Looking towards the Crescent Moon Buttress

Crescent Moon Buttress

Unclimbed Buttress, Sense of Religion Wall

Sense of Religion Buttress, left side

Sense of Religion Buttress, right side

Sense of Religion Buttress, right side, close-up

La Popa viewed from the summit of Estrellita

There are only 2 routes on these slabs high up Tarahumara Pass

The south face of Buzz Rock

Steep virgin walls above the Vatican

Steep, unclimbed walls inside the Vatican

Sunrise glow on the unclimbed walls at the West end of the basin

Illuminati with Yucca

Illuminati Wall at the West end of the basin

Unclimbed rock on the Sense of Religion Wall

The Zig-Zag Man on the North face of El Toro

South face of El Toro

Unclimbed walls on the East side

V-Notch and Great White Wall on the East side

Unclimbed walls at the West end of the front side

Close up view

Unclimbed wall with huge scar on front side

Nice view of the front side–the bottom half of the 2000 foot wall is blocked by the ridge in front of it. There are very few routes on this wall.

Unclimbed wall in the Virgin Canyon

Another steep, unclimbed wall in the Virgin Canyon

Steep unclimbed wall in the Lower Virgin Canyon

Another unclimbed sector of the Sense of Religion Wall

V-notch and Flying Buttreess on the front side-Ea

 

Unclimbed wall above the Vatican

Early morning light on the Great White Wall

La Muñeca, 20 miles from Potrero Chico

Unclimbed rock near the East end of the front side.

The Flying Buttress

The unclimbed South face of Buzz Rock catches the afternoon sun.

The long grey face in the center of the photo has a chimney sized crack running all the way up it! Los Lobos, south face.

Unclimbed crags in Potrero Grande

Crag X, Potrero Grande

Close-up Crag X

Huge unclimbed caves left of Timewave Zero

Unclimbed and unnamed tower on the Sense of Religion Wall

El Puma, undeveloped

Virgin Bowl in the Virgin Canyon

Unclimbed buttress at the far end of the Sense of Religion Wall

Unclimbed buttress and the Potrero Diamond, also unclimbed

The Potrero Lotus Wall

The Potrero Lotus Wall

The Lotus Wall close-up

The Lotus Wall close-up

Potrero Diamond close-up

Potrero Diamond close-up

 

Potrero Diamond

Potrero Diamond

Another unclimbed cliff band

Another unclimbed cliff band

 

This sunlit wall above Super Nova still awaits a first ascent

This sunlit wall above Super Nova still awaits a first ascent

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are no routes on any of these walls in the central section of the Sense of Religion Wall

There are no routes on any of these walls in the central section of the Sense of Religion Wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You have to climb 8 pitches to get to this beautiful sunlit wall high on the Mota sector

You have to climb 8 pitches to get to this beautiful sunlit wall high on the Mota sector

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aftern oon sun lights up the South face of Buzz Rock

Aftern oon sun lights up the South face of Buzz Rock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's only a handful of routes on this wall on the South side of Los Lobos Canyon

There’s only a handful of routes on this wall on the South side of Los Lobos Canyon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Magic Ed’s Routes

A compendium of photos and stories about my routes in no particular order.

I just counted them and I’ve bolted 82 routes in the Potrero with a total of 224 pitches.  I plan to eventually have all of them in here.  Everything will be posted in the blog before going in this section so check the blog often to keep up with the new info.  Use the search function to locate a specific route.

Wright of Passage    2 piches  5.8+, 5.10c   FA with Chris Small

Tami’s Pillar

Chris Small FFA pitch 2 Wright of Passage

Chris Small FFA Wright of Passage

Access Denied    4 pitches   5.10a, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.9   FA with Thomas Emde and Javier Gonzalez

To learn how Access Denied got its name please see my blog post for Aug 22, 2011

Access Denied

Gildas Tremblay starts up the first pitch.

Gildas on pitch one

Gildas on the first pitch

Gildas belays Rusty on the first pitch.

Rusty Baillie starts up the second pitch.

Rusty leading the second pitch.

Rusty belays Gildas on the second pitch.

Rusty starts up pitch three

Rusty Baillie, pitch 3, Access Denied

Rusty Baillie pitch 3 Access Denied

Rusty jamming through the crux on pitch 3.

Gildas Tremblay starts up the fourth pitch of Access Denied.

Gildas Tremblay pitch 4 Access Denied

Gildas cruisin’ the fourth pitch

Rusty coming up the fourth pitch

Rusty and Gildas descend the gulley to the Virgin Canyon overlook after climbing Access Denied

 

Climber at the crux of pitch 3, Access Denied

Steve Langley belayed by Dani Montaldon just below the crux of Access Denied (5.10c)

Late afternoon rappel off Access Denied

Climber on Access Denied with jet streak

 

Double Trouble–2 pitches–(5.10a, 5.10d)  FA with Frank Sarat   FFA with John Adams

John Adams placing bolts on the second pitch of Double Trouble

One of two dangerous flakes that had to come off

John starting up the first pitch

Nice movement on pitch 1

FFA pitch 2, Double Trouble, John Adams leading

John Adams, FFA pitch 2, Double Trouble

Standing on the big tuffa at the start of the pitch

Thin moves in the middle of the pitch

Getting ready to pull the steep, pumpy crux

Sierra Allen, ropegun for Double Trouble

Sierra Allen, ropegun for Double Trouble

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adrian starts up Double Trouble

Adrian starts up Double

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adrian Tanguay, pitch 1, Double Trouble

Adrian Tanguay, pitch 1, Double Trouble

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sierra, pitch 2, Double Trouble

Sierra, pitch 2, Double Trouble

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can I reach that bolt?

Can I reach that bolt?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Frank Sarat works his way up Double Trouble, pitch 2

Frank Sarat works his way up Double Trouble, pitch 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy climbers after a successful ascent

Happy climbers after a successful ascent

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Estrellita 12 pitches to 5.10b with variations up to 5.11c  with Craig McCudden and Ismael Garza

For more on Estrellita see my blog post for May 31, 2011

Estrellita Logo

Craig leads pitch 1, FA Estrellita

Ismael leads the variation on pitch 4, FA Estrellita

Ismael placing the bolt at the end of the Dog Walk, FA Estrellita

Magic Ed leads pitch 8, FA Estrellita

Craig Belaying on FA Estrelita

Magic Ed leads pitch 10, FA Estrellita

Magic Ed leads pitch 11, FA Estrellita

On the summit, FA Estrellita

First entry in the summit register

Drinking champagne on the summit, FA Estrellita

Ismael enjoys some champagne, FA Estrellita

Craig’s entry in the register, FA Estrellita

Craig has some champagne and a cigar, FA Estrellita

Ismael on the summit of Estrellita

The one and only Craig McCudden

Using a car jack to trundle a huge block from the summit of Estrellita.

Bombs Away!!

Estrellita, pitch 1

Estrellita, pitch 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Estrellita, pitch 2

Estrellita, pitch 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbers on pitch 8 of Estrellita

 

Ben on pitch 4 Estrellita photo by Michael Botkin

Starting up the Pit Bull variation (5.11c) on the third pitch of Estrellita.

Rapping Estrellita in the fog photo by Mark at Spadout.com

Lucas starts up the second pitch of Estrellita

Lucas on the 3rd pitch 5.11a

Lucas, pitch 8, Estrellita

Lucas at the 8th pitch belay station, Estrellita

Golden Puff  5.10d  with Tami

Starting up the bulge on Golden Puff

Marat Saks on Golden Puff

Marat approching the crux on Golden Puff

Marat in the crux of Golden Puff

Jon Jones starts up the crux on Golden Puff, 5.10d

Jon Jones pulls through the crux on Golden Puff

 

Las Chimuelas  3 pitches  5.8, 5.9, 5.8   FA with Tami and Ismael Garza

Both Tami and my Mom were having dental work done that summer, hence the name:  The Toothless Crones

Las Chimuelas

Reaching the belay sation on the first pitch of Las Chimuelas

Second pitch of Las Chimuelas, 5.9

 

Climbers on the 2nd ptch of Las Chimuelas

Climbers on the 2nd ptch of Las Chimuelas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Las Chimuelas, pitch 2

Las Chimuelas, pitch 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ramsey’s Shenanigans    3 pitches   5.9+, 5.9- , 5.9+    FA with Ann Ramsey

Shenanigans Tower, Wonder Wall

 

Shenanigans Tower, pitch 3

Ann Ramsey FFA pitch 1 Ramsey’s Shenanigans

Ann Ramsey FFA Ramsey’s Shenanigans

Ann nearing the belay FFA Ramsey’s Shenanigans

The following photos are of the FA after adding the 3rd pitch:

Kelly Von Bargen leads pitch 1 Ramsey’s Shenanigans

 

Kelly high on the first pitch

 

Kelly leads the second pitch

 

Kelly on pitch 2

 

Ann starts up the third pitch

 

Ann on pitch 3

 

Ann Ramsey pitch 3 Ramsey’s Shenanigans

 

Ann looks for a foothold on pitch 3

 

Kelly follows the third pitch

 

Kelly half-way on the third pitch

Ramsey’s Shenanigans pitch one

Climber on the third pitch of Ramsey’s Shenanigans with 2000 feet of virgin rock soaring above

Ramsey’s Shenanigans pitch 3

Chris Palmer leads the first pitch of Ramsey’s Shenanigans, 5.9+

Bird dog on the second pitch of Ramsey’s, 5.9

Pitch 2, Ramsey’s Shenanigan’s, Bird dog leading

Chris starts up the third pitch of Ramsey’s, 5.9

Third pitch of Ramsey’s Shenanigans, Chris Palmer leading

 

Remember the Alamo  3 pitches  5.8, 5.9, 5.9.   FA Solo,  FFA w/ Ismael Garza

Ismael follows pitch 1 on FFA of Remember the Alamo

Ismael leads pitch 2 on FFA of Remember the Alamo

Ismael leads pitch 2 on FFA of Remember the Alamo

Ismael follows pitch 3 on FFA of Remember the Alamo

Yankee Clipper  15 pitches up to 5.12c    FA with Ismael Garza

There used to be an old route that began about 40 feet to the right of Yankee Clipper which made a long rising traverse to what is now the anchor for the first pitch of the Clipper.  To get off the route you had to rap straight down through a thick jungle of trees, cactus and cat’s claw.  We decided to clean up the rappel line and bolt a pitch straight up.  Once that was done we decided to keep going and see where we ended up.  Four months later we had a beautiful 15 pitch route to a sub-peak which we named Garza Peak.  We did the first free ascent on my 50th birthday in 1999.  The day we bolted the first pitch we learned that baseball great Joe DiMaggio had passed away.  Joe’s nickname was The Yankee Clipper so we named the route in his honor.

Ismael Garza FA pitch 8 Yankee Clipper

After exploring out left we ended up going right which turned out to be the best way to gain the huge ledge atop the 8th pitch.

Alicia Puente on the first pitch (5.8) of Yankee Clipper.

Pitch 2, 5.8, Yankee Clipper

hird pitch of Yankee Clipper, 5.10b

Third pitch of Yankee Clipper, 5.10b

Traverse from top of Jungle Mountaineering to the 4th pitch of Yankee Clipper

Alix Morris leads the tricky pitch 6 of Yankee Clipper.

Pitch 7, Yankee Clipper

Pitch 7 Yankee Clipper, Alix Morris climbing

Alix on the 7th pitch of Yankee Clipper

Rappel, pitch 7, Yankee Clipper

Sarah Tanner on pitch 7 of Yankee Clipper photo by Rick Rivera
Getting ready to rap from pitch 14 Yankee Clipper

Pancho Villa Rides Again   5 pitches up to 5.11c  Magic Ed solo  FFA with Alex Catlin

Climbing past the block on the first pitch of Pancho Villa Rides Again 5.10c

Entering the crux on the first pitch of Pancho Villa Rides Again

Pancho Villa Rides Again, pitch 1

Connie on pitch 1, Pancho Villa Rides Again

Climbers on pitch 2 Pancho Villa Rides Again
Pitch 2 Pancho Villa Rides Again
\
Pitch 3 Pancho Villa Rides Again
Pancho Villa Rides Again, pitch 3
Pitch 4 Pancho Villa Rides Again
Approaching the belay pitch 4 Pancho Villa Rides Again
Pitch 5 Pancho Villa Rides Again
rapelling Pancho Villa Rides Again

Climbing the crack on pitch 2, Pancho Villa photo by Mark Gain

Steve Langley follows pitch 2 Pancho Villa Rides Again, photo by Doug Brown

Steve Langley top of pitch 4, Pancho Villa Rides Again, photo by Doug Brown

 

Pitch 4, Pancho Villa Rides Again photo by Mark J. Gain

 

Rapping from the top of Pancho Villa Rides Again photo by Mark J. Gain

Steve and Dany on pitch 2 of Pancho Villa Rides Again

Climbers on pitch 5, Pancho Villa Rides Again

Andrea and Cody on the 5.11c variation, pitch 5, Pancho Villa Rides Again

Climber at the summit anchors of Pancho Villa Rides Again

Pitch 5, Pancho Villa Rides Again

Climbers on the last pitch of Pancho Villa Rides Again

Pancho Villa Rides Again, pitch 2

Pancho Villa Rides Again, pitch 2

Pancho Villa Rides Again, pitch 3 (5.10b)

Pancho Villa Rides Again, pitch 3 (5.10b)

 

Black Cat Bone   9 pitches up to 5.10d  FA with one-pitch Tami and Dane Bass

Dane Bass follows pitch 5 on FFA of Black Cat Bone
Dane Bass leads pitch 6 on FFA of Black Cat Bone
Dane Bass follows pitch 7 on the FFA

Andrea Bell pitch 2 Black Cat Bone

Black Cat Bone, pitch 5

Jeremy Ashton belayd by Susan Denham on pitch 6 (5.10d) of Black Cat Bone

Jeremy belays Susan on pitch 6, Black Cat Bone

In the 5.10d crux just under the big roof on pitch 6 of Black Cat Bone

Zombie Wolf  5.8+  FA with Ralph Vega

Ismael Garza on Zombie Wolf 1

Ismael Garza on Zombie Wolf 2

Bicho Borracho  5.12a  with Rodman and Ismael Garza

Rodman leads the FFA of Bicho Borracho

Rodman FFA Bicho Borracho 2

Leap of Faith  3 pitches  5.8, 5.10b, 5.11a  with Ismael Garza

Gail Blauer Leap of Faith pitch 1 photo by Manny Rengal

Leap of Faith pitch 2 5.10b

Frank Sarat starting up the second pitch of Leap of Faith 5.10b

Frank in the sustained 5.10b crux of pitch 2, Leap of Faith

 

Mas Panza Que Pelo  5.10a  with Ismael Garza

More Belly Than Hair–This route was named after my dog Rhino who looked more like a pot-bellied pig.

Mas Panza Que Pelo 5.10a

Osito  5.9+ with Rodman and Ismael Garza

Originally climbed as a trad route and left unbolted until 2010.  I first graded this 5.8 trad but the general concensus now is 5.9+.  Not only was I younger and stronger back then but I was wearing spider mitts!!  Bolted in November of 2010 with Bjorn Johannson.

Magic Ed FA Osito trad

Bjorn Johansson Osito

Bjorn Osito 2

Osito 3

Osito 4

Osito 5

Osito 6

Osito 7

Osito 8

Osito 9

Osito 10

Bjorn Johansson Osito 11

Rylee Sweeney leads the now popular Osito

Kelso’s Way  5.10c  with Mike Quigley

Mike named the route after his Grandfather.

Kelso’s Way photo by Aparicio

Kelso’s Way, 5.10c, Mota Wall

Ann Ramsey on Kelso’s Way (5.10d)

Climber on Kelso{s Way

Climber on Kelso{s Way

Kelso's Way, 5.10c/d

Kelso’s Way, 5.10c/d

 

Treasure of the Sierra Madre  7 pitches up to 5.10c  with Tami, Ismael Garza, Ramon Huerga and Paul Irby    FFA with Paul Irby

This route was named after the fabulous book by B. Traven.  The movie with Humphrey Bogart is quite good also.

 

Climbing the pillar on the first pitch of Treasure of the Sierra Madre

Climbing the pillar on the first pitch of Treasure of the Sierra Madre

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Treasure of the Sierra Madre pitch 1

Treasure of the Sierra Madre pitch 2

 

Pitch 2, Treasure of the Sierra Madre

Climbers at the belay station at the top of pitch 4, Treasure of the Sierra Madre

Treasure of the Sierra Madre, pitch 5 (5.10c), #1

Treasure, pitch 5, #2

Treasure, pitch 5, #3

Treasure, pitch 5, #4

Treasure, pitch 5, #6

Treasure, pitch 5, #6

Treasure, pitch 5, #7

Climbers on the 5th pitch of Treasure of the Sierra Madre, 5.10c

Mitch Miller leads pitch 6 of Treasure of the Sierra Madre photo by Gail Blauer

Pitch 6, Treasure of the Sierra Madre, 5.9

Sky Top Buttress  –3 pitches–5.8, 5.8 (or 5.10a), 5.10a    FA:  Magic Ed    FFA:  Magic Ed, Ismael Garza

Ismael Garza, FFA pitch 1, Sky Top Buttress

Ismael starting the second pitch on FFA Sky Top

Ismael starts up the dihedral FFA Sky Top

In the dihedral FFA Sky Top

Ismael ponders the third pitch FFA Sky Top

Ismael Garza leads pitch 3, FFA Sky Top Buttress

Pitch 3, Sky Top Buttress Ismael Garza on FFA

Rapping off Sky Top in the dark after FFA

Climbers on the second pitch of Sky Top Buttress

Climbers on the second pitch of Sky Top Buttress

 

Cliffmama leads the 2nd pitch of Sky Top Buttress

Cliffmama leads the 2nd pitch of Sky Top Buttress

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Super Nova  8 pitches to 5.11a    FA with Bob Almond  FFA with Bob Almond and Barbara

Leading the 5.10d first pitch of Super Nova photo by Mark J. Gain

 

Death of a Tradman (5.9)

This route was originally climbed as a trad route by some visiting Brits and retro-bolted many years later by myself with Rusty Baillie and Gildas Tremblay.

Jeremy starts up Death of a Tradman (5.9)

Jeremy at the crux of Death of a Tradman

Death of a Tradman, 5.10a

Death of a Tradman, 5.10a

 

Hot Rock Global Challenge (5.10b)

This cool pitch was bolted with the Hot Rock Global Challenge team when they came through Mexico and spent a couple of months in the Potrero.  We ran into some bad rock on the second pitch so the route remains unfinished to this day.

Jeremy Ashton leads the Hot Rock Global Challenge route (5.10a) five pitches up on the Jungle Wall

Jeremy on Hot Rock Global Challenge

 

Howlin’ Wolf (5.9)  FA with Ralph Vega

Jeremy Ashton near the top of Howlin’ Wolf

 

 Quickdraw McGraw  2 pitches 5.10a, 5.10d  FA with Rodman, Ismael Garza et all.

Elisa Recchia leads the second pitch (5.10d) of Quickdraw McGraw

Elisa ponders the crux move at the top of pitch 2, Quickdraw McGraw

 

 The Grand Pillar–10 pitches to 5.10d–with Rusty Baillie and Gildas Tremblay.  Unfinished.

See blog posting November 9, 2011.

TNT Wall and the Grand Pillar

Jaime Bohle leading pitch 1, Grand Pillar

Chris Winter starting the second pitch (5.10c), Grand Pillar

Chris in the crux, pitch 2, Grand Pillar

Chris Winter starting up the 9th (5.10d) pitch, Grand Pillar

Jaime starting the 9th pitch, Grand Pillar

Jaime leads the 9th pitch, Grand Pillar

Chris Winter gets the FA of pitch 10 (5.10d), Grand Pillar

Jaime Bohle and Chris Walter get the second ascent of pitch 10, Grand Pillar

Jaime and Chris on pitch 10, Grand Pillar (close-up)

 

Tortilla Flat–2 pitches–5.9, 5.11b  with Ralph Vega

Gail Blauer leads the first pitch (5.9) of Tortilla Flat

Gail, pitch 1, Tortilla Flat

 

This Dog’s Life (5.10a) with Rusty Baillie

Leigh Di Napoli stylin’ on This Dog’s Life

Leigh Di Napoli on This Dog’s Life 5.10a

Dany leading This Dog’s Life

Dany Montandon on This Dog’s Life, 5.10a, Mota Wall

Climber on This Dog's Life, 5.10a

Climber on This Dog’s Life, 5.10a

This Dog's Life

This Dog’s Life

 

Rusty’s Crack  (5.8)

Frank Sarat on Rusty’s Crack 5.8

 

Voodoo Trance  10 pitches up to 5.11a  FA with Frank Sarat

Left side of the Jungle Wall

Roberto and Michele on pitch 3, Jungle Mountaineering, the approach to Voodoo Trance

Negotiating the 5.10d roof on pitch 7, Voodoo Trance

Voodoo Trance, pitch 8, 5.11a

 

Sunnyside Up  2 pitches 5.9, 5.10d with Edgardo Baca

Pitch 2 of Sunnyside Up, 5.10c

Climbers on Sunnyside Up (5.10d)

Climbers on Sunnyside Up (5.10d)

Rapping off Sunnyside Up

Rapping off Sunnyside Up

Gazing at the Outrage Wall from the top of Chico Spire.

Gazing at the Outrage Wall from the top of Chico Spire.

 

Frenesi 5.10c with Ismael Garza

John Adams on Frenesi, 5.10c

John getting into the second crux of Frenesi, 5.10c

 

Never Cry Wolf –2 pitches (5.8, 5.10c)  FA with Rusty Baillie

John Adams starts up the second pitch (5.10c) of Never Cry Wolf

 

Will the Wolf Survive–4 pitches–(5.9, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a)  FA with Dane Bass

James and Veronique simul-rapping Will the Wolf Survive

 

Fish and Clips–3 pitches–(5.10a, 5.11b, 5.10a)  with Ismael Garza, Craig McCudden.  FFA with Rodman.

Fish & Clips, pitch 1 (5.10a)

Chris nears the belay on the first pitch or Fish & Clips

Chris leads the second pitch of Fish & Clips, (5.11b)

Rapping off Fish & Clips

 

El Mariachi (5.8) with Frank Sarat

Dave Overmars on El Mariachi (5.8)

 

Flamingo Wall–3 pitches–(5.8, 5.9, 5.11b) with Eliud Villareal

First pitch of the Flamingo Wall (5.8), Dave Overmars climbing

Dave leads the 2nd pitch of the Flamingo Wall (5.9-)

 

Barkin’ for Martin  5.10b/c  with Frank Sarat

Dave Overmars starting up Barkin’ for Martin, 5.10b

Dave on Barkin’ for Martin

 

Timewave Zero  23 pitches up to 5.12a

Dave Benton leading on the FFA of the crux second pitch of Jambo Bwana

Magic Ed arrives at the belay of the second pitch.

Magic Ed leads the 5th pitch

Dave and Ed on the “summit” ledge

Pitch 5, Timewave Zero

Pitch 5, Timewave Zero

 

Saule on the 6th pitch of Timewave Zero photo by Gedas

Climber on the 9th pitch of Timewave Zero with Red-tail hawk soaring nearby

Deily Mora on Timewave Zero photo by Gino Negrini

Deily Mora on Timewave Zero
photo by Gino Negrini

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caguama Queen 5.9+   Rodman and I cleaned this up and Tami got the FA

Climber faces the crux on Caguama Queen 5.9+

Caguama Queen

Climbers on Caguama Queen and Mota Rolla, 5.10d

Caguama Queen, 5.9+

 

Espantasuegra 5.8, extension 5.10b, with Tami

Climber on the Espantasuegra extension, 5.10a

 

Matacumba 5.10c with Ismael Garza

Matacumba (5.10b/c)

 

Señor Natural  (5.9) with Tami and Annabel Raab   Originally a trad route now bolted

Kristen on Señor Natural, 5.9

Kristen on Señor Natural, 5.9

Señot Natural

Señor Natural

 

Death of a Tradman (5.10a) with Rusty Baillie and Gildas Tremblay

Death of a Tradman, 5.10a

Death of a Tradman, 5.10a

 

Honor Among Thieves (5.8)  with Tami and Ismael Garza

Honor Among Thieves (5.8)

Honor Among Thieves (5.8)

 

El Cachorro (The Cub)  5.7  with Bobby Young

This was one of the first routes I put up in the Potrero and remained a trad route for many years.  Now bolted.

Rosaura on El Cachoro

Rosaura on El Cachorro

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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